creative little daisy

Pillow Talk

Are you wondering if I'm going to sew something for Sew Something Month? I am. I did. How about some cute Christmas pillows- tutorial included. I'm so excited, this post can also be found at Life In Grace as part of Edie's 12 Days of Handmade Christmas.

Perhaps the easiest way to get your feet wet in the sewing waters is by making simple pillow or cushion  covers. Once you know the basic construction, you can get as fancy as you wish with embellishments and trim. You can update the look of a room quickly and inexpensively by simply adding some pretty throw pillows or recovering existing ones.

 

For this tutorial, I’m going to show you how I I saved at least $75.00 by making my own pillow covers instead of buying them from Pottery Barn and Ballard Designs.

I had everything I needed so I didn't spend a dime. If you don't have an embarrassing stash a few things lying around, like I do,  I think you can buy what you need for less than $15.00.

First gather your supplies,

 

You will need pillow forms to cover.  You can buy inserts fairly inexpensively at the fabric store, especially when you catch them on sale, or like I said above, you can just recover pillows you already have.  One of the pillows I'm covering today came from Walmart. I was there to buy a pillow form, but noticed that I could buy an 18 inch pillow  cheaper than a 16 inch pillow insert, so I went with that.

I am using a rotary cutter, but you can make your cuts with scissors. If you plan to do much sewing, I recommend getting one and a self healing cutting mat.  You will also need something to measure your fabric for cutting. I have a clear ruler and my cutting mat has markings, but a tape measure or yard stick would be sufficient.

You will also need a few pins, something to mark with is helpful ( I use a water soluble fabric marking pen), an iron  and of course a sewing machine. 

For the first pillow, I used a fabric called osnaburg, it looks very much like linen but is much cheaper. You can find it at JoAnn or Walmart for around $3/yd.  I pre-wash my fabric before sewing to get any shrinking out of the way. 

Measure the pillow or form you want to cover. Cut one piece for the front of the cover the exact dimensions.  My pillow is 16" square so I cut one piece of fabric that size. Normally when you sew, you cut the item larger, taking your seam size into consideration. For pillows I cut the fabric the same size so that the insert will fit snugly into the cover. Otherwise you end up with a saggy baggy pillow.

 For the covers I'm making today, I will be adding a little something to the fronts. I could have chosen a pretty fabric and skipped the embellishing part and gone on to the next step. Since I am embellishing, I will do that first. 

I want to recreate this Pottery Barn pillow, cause I think it's really cute, but I don't have $29 (plus shipping) to spend on a pillow- especially since I really like the set ($29 plus shipping times three- YIKES!)

 

 

To make the LOVE pillow, I took my 16" front piece and found the center  by folding it in half then in half again. I made the little pocket by cutting a pieces of the same fabric 6" x 8". I machine embroidered the word LOVE in the center, but you could just as easily paint the words on using regular craft paint- if you have a nice steady hand- which I do not.  You could stencil it on using regular stencils or the freezeer paper stencil method or use  iron on transfer paper and iron it onto your pocket.  Once you have your word on your pocket, turn under all four sides 1/2" and press.

I bet I just lost half of you didn't I? When I said press? Pressing gets such a bad wrap, no one wants to fool with ironing. It takes too much time. I don't like to iron any more than the next guy. In fact, I think that may be what turned me off to sewing when I was young. My granny tried to teach me to sew and once she got all preachy about pressing after every step and showing me the propper way to press an item, I started hearing Charlie Brown's teacher "wa wa waaa waaaa...."  If I have to do all that, I'm not messing with it! Well, fast forward to today, and I'm probably a bigger preacher on the merits of pressing as you sew than my granny every thought of being. It really doesn't take much time, and it not only makes the sewing easier, it makes what you sew look so, so, much better. Have you ever seen a handmade item and just it just screamed "homemade!" I bet it was because it wasn't pressed.  So please, please, if you are going to take the time to make something, take just a tiny bit more time to press. OK, off my soapbox and back to the tut. 

Find the center of the pocket and place it on the center of the pillow front. To keep this extra secure for stitching I used a little bit of stitch witchery (fusible web) under the sides and bottom. Once it's nice and secure, I used a quilting stitch on my machine and red thread to give it a hand stitched look ( not necessary, you could use a regular straight stitch, just increase the stitch length). You could also hand stitch it if you like.

 

This pillow cover will have an envelop closure  so I cut two pieces for the back. I don't have an exact formula for cutting the back pieces, I just want them to be large enough to allow for about a four inch overlap. I also allow extra to hem the outer edges (the pieces that overlap)  That sounds confusing, but it will make sense. For this pillow I cut one piece 16" x 12 and one 16"  X 14". 

On one short side of each back piece,  turn under about a 3/4" hem,  press, and turn it under again.  Yes, again with the pressing. Sorry.

 

Sew a straight stitch close to the edge of the fold on each back piece.

 

Now lay your front piece right side facing up on your work surface. Lay each back piece on top with right sides facing down, lining up the outer edges of the back pieces with the outer egdes of the front pieces. You will be overlapping the back pieces. This creates your envelop back.

Pin in several places to hold everything in place for sewing. Be sure to pin the edges of the back pieces so they stay put while you sew everything together.

 

Now sew around all four sides, I used a 3/8" inch allowance because it looked like enough for the fabric I was using. 

Clip your threads, turn your cover right side out, stuff your pillow in and admire your work.  Take a picture of your lovely new pillow so you can share it with all your friends! 

I also made the JOY pillow (didn't get to PEACE yet, maybe today) and this gift box pillow like one Ballard has for- are you ready for this? $75.00!!!. I used the same construction method, you just embelish the front piece any way you like first. 

Want to know how I made the Ballard's pillow? OK I'll tell you. It was really easy and didn't take very long at all. 

You will need a printed fabric, burlap, ribbon or double fold bias tape, freezer paper and steam-a-seam lite.

Cut your first piece to fit your pillow. Mine was 18" this time. I happened to have a piece of green fabric almost exactly like the print on the Ballard's pillow.

Next, cut a piece of steam-a-seam 9" x 9" and fuse it to the back of a piece of burlap. Do (this before cutting the burlap to size, that way you have less fraying) Cut the burlap 9" x 9", remove the paper backing and fuse to the center of the printed fabric.

 

Go around all four sides of the burlap with a zig-zag stitch in dark brown or black thread. 

With the stitch witchery, (or any fusible tape- or you could use a glue stick) secure a piece of red ribbon or bias tape down the center of the burlap box, turning under the raw edges.

 

To make the gift tag, cut a piece of freezer paper 8.5" x 11" (the size of printer paper) and iron the shiny side to a piece of light weight cotton fabric. Cut the fabric 8.5 x 11 after adhering the freezer paper. Now you should have a piece of fabric that will run through your printer. I had to fiddle with mine a bit, but it worked nicely. I am not guaranteeing this will work in your printer. I simply googled free printable sheet music, found and image I liked and printed it on the freezer paper backed fabric. After printing the image onto the fabric, remove the freezer paper. Next fuse a piece of steam-a-seam to the back and cut it out in the shape of a gift tag.  Remove the paper backing and iron it in place on the burlap box.  Stitch around the edges with a zig-zag stitch.  (sorry for the blurry photos)

 

Construct the pillow following the instructions above, then tie a bow from your ribbon and attach it to the front. I used fabric glue, but you could hand stitch it in place.

 

Stand back and admire your pillow and brag to your husband that you saved $75.00!

A little bonus tip~If you are limited on space where ever your sewing area is, you can make a little portable pressing board instead of putting up a big ironing board. I made one yesterday with a scrap of wood, it wasn't plywood, just some sort of paneling stuff Mitch had that measured 16" x 24". I covered it with 2 layers of cotton quilt batting and a layer of fleece interfacing then a layer of cotton fabric. I stapled it all to the back and now I have a surface for pressing I can keep right next to my cutting area, saving me steps to the ironing board and clearing up some floor space in my sewing room.

I'm linking this post to the I Can Make That party at Just a Girl.

DIY version of a bias tape maker

I have one of those cool bias tape makers. I'm sure you've seen them and the impressive results they produce. I bet many of you even have experienced such results. Not me. I've been a little embarrassed to say, I couldn't do it. I couldn't get mine to work. Then it happened. The proverbial light bulb went off and it became shamefully obvious why. You see, I have the 1/2 inch bias tape maker.

I expected to get bias tape that measured 1/2 inch when finished.
Pictured above is actually double fold bias tape. The neat little tool makes single fold tape. Now I knew it wouldn't come out of the tool looking like this. I knew it would be a strip with both sides folded in to the center, my problem was making the distinction between the terminology.  It may have been wise to read those directions instead of throwing them away. I had been cutting my strips the width needed for 1/2 inch double fold tape. I know, not very smart. Once I had my moment of enlightenment, I cut a strip around 1 inch wide (maybe slightly less) and whatdayaknow, the tool works beautifully! 
All that semi-coherent babble isn't intended to be a tutorial, since I'm sure you all understood how to correctly use a bias tape maker, or at the very least would be wise enough to read the directions first. No, the tutorial is for a less fancy, but nearly as effective DIY version of the bias tape maker, and you can easily adjust it to make any size bias tape you like.

All you need is an ironing board, a hot iron, a measuring tape or ruler, and a long needle. A strip of fabric would be nice too. It doesn't have to be cut on the bias unless you will be going around curves.

First determine the width you'd like your bias tape to be (single fold) . For this demonstration my strips are cut about 1.75" and I want the opening under the pin to be 1". This will give me 1" single fold bias tape or 1/2 inch double fold.  I am using little sewing gauge to determine the placement of my needle. Bring the needle up through the ironing board cover, go over 1" and push it back through the cover. The needle will run perpendicular to the ironing board.

Cut one end of your fabric strip to a point and run it under the needle wrong side up.

I am left-handed, so this probably looks very backward to you right-handed folks. Now you know how we lefties feel most of the time. I am pulling the fabric through with my left hand, going right to left. Do whatever feels comfortable to you. When you first start the fabric through, you will probably need to work it a little to be sure it is folding symmetrically.

As you pull the fabric through, press the fold in place. Be careful not to burn your little fingers. That's all there is to it.  Happy bias tape making, my friends!

Let me know how it works for you.

 

Cabinet Painting 101:

 

Since several of you are interested, here is a quick run-down of how cabinets are painted at Casa de Daisy. This is by no means advice from a professional, just what works for me.

Materials:

A good cleaner/ degreaser

Scotch Brite Pad and/or fine grit sandpaper

Painters tape

Edge painting tool or a paint brush to get in corners and edges

A foam roller made for painting smooth surfaces. Buy several covers, you'll need a new one for each coat.

Primer- I used Kilz

Paint- look at the can to determine how much you will need. I started with a quart and had to go back several times. If you are doing a small area like a bathroom, a quart should be plenty, for a kitchen, you may want to go ahead and get a gallon. I used semi-gloss oil based paint because I like the finish it gives. It is a big pain to work with. It takes forever to dry and is a mess to clean up, but it dries to a very hard durable finish and shows less brush strokes than latex.  I think it's well worth the extra work involved. It's stinky though, so be sure your area is well ventilated.

Oil based paint doesn't clean up with soap and water. You'll need something like mineral spirits or acetone to clean your brushes. To clean the paint off your hands, pour a little cooking oil in your palm and rub hands together like you're washing them. Once the paint is loosened up, you can wash with soap and water.

If you use oil based paint allow at least three or four days for this project. You have to let the paint dry 24 hours between coats and it will take more than one coat.

Now for the fun stuff.

• Remove doors and drawers and the hardware. Depending on the type of hinges you have, you may want to remove those too. My hinges don't show, so I left them on the doors.
• Clean, clean, then clean some more. Especially important in a kitchen. I used TSP. It's available at Lowes and WalMart. Just mix it in some water, put on some rubber gloves and wipe everything down. After cleaning with the TSP you will need to go back with a clean sponge to remove any residue.
• If your cabinets have a heavy coat of varnish you may want to sand with a fine grit sandpaper to remove the shine and make a rougher surface for the paint to stick to. I didn't have much shine to worry about so I just scuffed everything up with a scotch brite pad. Wipe everything off again to remove any dust.
• If you have a very steady hand and can paint the cabinets without getting paint on the walls and counter tops you can skip taping. If you're like me, get out the painters tape and carefully tape the areas around the cabinets you would like to protect from paint. Extra time spent taping will be well worth it in the end.

• Once everything is taped you can start priming. I use Kilz. It comes in a low odor formula, but somehow I ended up with the stinky stuff. It is really strong, so open some windows and turn on a fan.
• Primer dries pretty fast so by the time you are finished with the last cabinet, the first one will likely be dry and ready for the first coat of paint.
• If you've never painted with oil paint, be warned that even though it dries slowly, it gets tacky fast. You don't want to go back over it with your brush or roller more than necessary. Try to get a nice smooth coat on and keep moving.
• My cabinets needed one coat of primer and two coats of paint. Don't be tempted to lay on a super heavy coat to save time, it will never dry.
• For the doors and drawers, I was fortunate enough to have access to a paint gun- (the kind cars are painted with) and a paint gun operator (Mitch).  He sprayed the doors and drawer fronts for me. It still took two coats of paint and had to dry 24 hours between coats and in the end, the cabinets painted with a roller looked as smooth as the sprayed doors. I don't think it saved that much time in the long run, so don't feel like you can't get the same results because you don't have access to a paint sprayer.
• I removed my tape between paint coats, just out of fear I would pull paint off with the tape if I waited too long.
• Once you are satisfied with the coverage, you'll want to let it dry at least 24 hours before replacing the doors and drawers so you don't mess up all your hard work. Also in the first week or so after painting try to be very careful, the paint will be soft to begin with, but trust me, once it has time to fully cure, the finish will be quite durable. 

Happy painting!!

Here are some more cabinet painting tips I found online.

Don't fear the zipper

Zippers seem to be the boogyman of sewing. The monster under the bed that puts fear in the hearts of sew-ers. And like the boogyman zippers need not scare you, the fear is only imagined.

For a long time I avoided anything that required putting a zipper in. I'd check the back of the pattern to see if a zipper was required, if so, that pattern went back in the drawer. One day I decided to give it a try, just to see if it was as bad as I had been led to believe. It wasn't. Oh, I'm sure it wouldn't have won any awards but attempting that first one proved that I could do it.

Putting a zippered pocket into a purse is a good way to wet your feet, so to speak where zippers are concerned. Zippered pouches is another.

This is the method I use for putting a zippered pocket in a purse. The pocket is put in one side of your purse lining before assembling it.

Materials:

Zipper: I'm using a 7" zipper

Fabric for pocket: A rectangle that is about 9" wide. The length is determined by how deep you want your pocket. This one is about 12" long and my finished pocket will be about 5 1/2" deep.

Ruler and Pen

Zipper foot: I think this is key to putting zippers in. If you don't have one, I recommend getting one.

Step 1:

Fold the rectangle in half the long way to determine the center line.

Step 2:

About 1/2" below the center line draw a rectangular box that is 1/2" x  7 1/2"

Step 3:

Pin the pocket onto your purse lining piece.

Position it so that the rectangle is where you want the pocket to be. Mine is about 2 1/2" from the top edge and centered on the lining piece.

Step 4:

Stitch along the marked lines

Step 5:

Cut a slit in the center of the rectangle through the pocket and the lining stopping about 1/4" from the ends and cut at an angle to the corners.

Step 6:

Push the pocket fabric through the slit you just cut to the back of the lining and press flat

Step 7:

Center the zipper right side up in the opening and pin securely in place. (you could also use fusible tape to secure the zipper before stitching)  Be sure the pocket fabric remains open flat and away from the opening.

Step 8:

Stitch along the edge of fabric, close to the zipper tape all the way around the zipper.

Step 9:

Bring the sides of the pocket together and stitch along the sides and bottom

There you have it, a zippered pocket in your lining.

This weeks gratitude list is about the senses,

Sight: The orange streaks in the early morning sky, the quiet gracefulness of bare leafless trees against a gray sky, these beautiful prints (more art for the living room)

Sound: The words "I love you", Casey playing guitar, Alyssa singing, Maggie purring

Smell: My morning coffee, Mitch's fresh from the shower skin, clean laundry

Touch: Toby's soft fur, hugs, soft warm flannel PJs

Taste: Chocolate chip cookies dipped in milk, chips and salsa, breakfast for dinner

Craft Apron Tutorial

This tutorial is based on my interpretation of the pattern found in Machine Made Patchworks. I highly recommend the book, it is full of great projects. I did not follow the pattern exactly and have no idea what the instructions say, as they are written in Japanese. The apron featured in the book has the patchwork sewn onto a base with the edges left raw, not sewn in strips.

Materials:

• Canvas or other medium-heavy weight fabric for apron body- I used canvas from a painters drop cloth
• Muslin or sheeting for apron and pocket lining
• Variety of printed fabric for patchwork- I used 8 different prints but you can use more or less
• Solid fabric for ties
• Batting for quilting the pocket- I used cotton quilt batting
• A cutting mat, rotary cutter and ruler are extremely helpful but not necessary

Cutting Dimensions:

• Cut one each canvas and lining fabric 12.5 inches by 30 inches, this will be the body of the apron
• Cut one lining fabric 6 inches by 30 inches for the pocket lining
• Cut 2 from the fabric for ties 35 inches by 2.5 inches
• Decide how you want your patchwork pocket to look and cut strips of several different prints in various sizes. This will make the pocket. For the design above I cut 7 strips 6 inches by 3 inches (see either end in picture of finished apron above), four strips four inches wide by three inches tall ( bottom center), one strip approximately 12.5 inches long (red piece top center).
• I use a 1/4" seam allowance for sewing

Step One Lay out your patchwork, overlapping the pieces by 1/4 " until you have it approx 30" x 6"

Once you are happy with the layout sew your strips together. If you want to use the layout I've used, start by sewing the 3" x 6" strips together. (sections 1 & 2)  Next sew the 4" x 3" pieces together (section 3). Once each section is sewn together press your seams. Sew sections 3 & 4 together, trim as needed for sizing, press. This will be the center section, sew sections 1 & 2 to either end. Phew... do I have you completely confused? I think I am.

Once you have that all pieced together cut your cotton batting slightly larger than the patchwork and place the patchwork on top of the batting. I use a temporary basting spray to hold it securely for quilting and I also pin it in several places.

Machine quilt straight lines approx 1" apart across the patchwork. I use a quilting guide on my walking foot, but you can mark the lines with a water soluble pen.

Trim the excess batting and patchwork to fit your lining piece 6" x 30"

Place lining on top of patchwork right sides together and sew across top only. Turn to right side and press.

Place the apron piece (canvas) right side up on your work surface, place the pocket right side up lining it up with the apron bottom, on top of that place the apron lining.

Secure with pins and sew around all four sides, leaving a small (approx 4" section at top for turning right side out). Trim seam allowances turn and press.

Almost finished.

Mark the divisions for your pockets. There will be five pockets. The finished width of the apron is about 29 inches making the pockets approx 5 3/4". I say approx because I stitch the pocket section over one of the existing quilting lines, so they will likely not all be the exact same size. Sew down the division lines, making sure to secure the top of the pocket by backstitching several times.

Now all you have to do is make and attach the straps and you're finished.

Fold the short ends of the straps in approx. 1/2" and press.

Fold in half the long way, press

Open and fold each side in to center, press

Fold again to hide raw edges, press... yes there's lots of pressing. Like my pink iron, by the way?

Repeat with other strap. Sew down the open side and you're onto the final step.

Pin in place about 1" in from the end and 1/4" down from the top of the apron. Repeat with other strap. Sew straps in place and sew across top of apron to secure opening that was left for turning.

That's all folks!

Wear and enjoy.

If you would like to make an apron brilliantly designed especially for a seamstress by a seamstress, check this one out.

Belt Tutorial

Another day, another belt. Here's a little rundown of how I make a belt. I'm sure there's a better, faster, easier way, but this is the method I use.

Determine the size your belt should be (measure around the outside of your pants where the belt loops are) Add to this about 8.5 inches.

I have 1.5" d-rings so my finished belt width will be about 1.5". I cut the fabric strips 3" wide by various lengths or if you want a more uniform look you can cut them all the same length. Cut enough to make up the finished belt size. (remember to take the seam allowance into consideration) I just cut a pile of strips and keep sewing them end to end (right sides together)  until I come up with the length I need.

Once the strips are all sewn together press your seams.

Now cut a strip of fairly stiff fusible interfacing (I use decor-bond by pellon) 1.5 inches by the length of the belt.

This will be fused to the back of the length of strips. Fuse the interfacing so that it is centered (top to bottom) on the length of strips.

Press the raw edges in toward the center 3/4" on each side. (to give you a width of 1.5")

Cut a piece of grosgrain ribbon 9.5" shorter than the strips. Pin in place to the back of the length of strips. (or use a fusible tape to secure for stitching)

Place ribbon 7" in from one end

About 2.5" in from other end

On the end with ribbon 7" from end fold down 1/2" to hide raw edge and then fold the fabric back onto the ribbon.

Stitch down both long sides close to the edge.

On oposite end fold back 1/2" and fold again 1" through d-rings. Stitch in place and you are finished.

You could also skip the interfacing and back the belt with cotton webbing instead of ribbon. I happened to have interfacing and ribbon so I used what I had. All the measurements are approximate. The important thing is to allow enough extra length to attach the d-rings on one end and to fold back enough on the other end so that when the belt is on you see fabric on the part that folds back. (does that make sense?) It is really easier than this bunch of writing makes it sound. Just give it a try. If you make one send me a picture. Next I think I'll try a quilted one.

Making this belt was quick an easy and without any snafus. Later I worked on a wristlet. I have some pearls of wisdom to share about that experience as well:

• When cutting down a zipper to make it shorter, the instructions tell you to sew over the teeth at the point you want to shorten the zipper. Even though you will be enclosing the end in a seam, don't skip this step. It is a necessary step and doesn't take very long. In fact it takes a tiny fraction of the time it will take you to take apart the outer bag and lining pieces you have just attached nicely to the zipper before you carelessly open the zipper and slide the pull right off the teeth and onto the floor. Those guys don't go back on. So now instead of taking a couple of minutes to stitch across that zipper end, you have to spend 30 or so minutes to take everything apart and start over. AARRGGGGGGG!!!!
• If it is called a wristlet, you should actually make a wrist strap and put that strap on the wristlet before it is completely sewn up. Otherwise, it's just a zippered pouch.
• If you want to cut a length of fabric 4 inches wide and are using your 4 inch wide ruler and rotary cutter to cut this fabric. Make sure your ruler is actually a 4" wide ruler and not 3 inches. Otherwise you will have a 3" wide length of fabric. Go figure!

Friday Post: part 1

I have enough to say for three posts! I hate to overwhelm anyone with a ridiculously long post so I'll divide it up into bite sized chunks. Speaking of bite sized, have you seen the beautiful miniature sweets that Vicki's (Turkey Feathers) daughter, Grace makes. Go now, I'll be here when you get back......Oh my goodness!! Do you want a donut now or what? Grace is following beautifully in her amazing mom's footsteps.

OK part one, a follow up to yesterdays mini tutorial post. I tend to over think everything. After I published that post I went to bed and couldn't sleep worried that I had left something out or been more confusing than helpful. This morning I got the book out to look over the pattern again. I saw something I had never seen before as much as I had studied this pattern. Or should I say I looked at one of the illustrations with a different perspective. This one:

I must have looked at this same drawing 50 times and never "got" what it was telling you to do. I even emailed this wise lady to ask her some questions. When I first saw this picture it looked like you cut and quilted each strip individually, then sewed them together, and I guess that is what this picture shows but not the way I imagined. I imagined cutting batting for each strip, quilting the strip and sewing a bunch of quilted strips together. That would make some bulky seams, I thought. So I have been doing it the way I demonstrated in yesterdays post. Cut the strips, sew them together and then machine quilt. This morning it dawned on me that what this picture shows is you start with a square of batting, sew one long side of the first strip to the batting with the right side down, flip it back right side up and quilt, then the next strip and so on until you have all 8. Duhh. So I tried it this way. I don't know if it is because I have become accustomed to doing it the other way but I don't like the book's method. My final piece was crooked and all out of shape. For the back piece I sewed the strips together and basted them to a piece of batting slightly larger and quilted starting at the center working to either side. Much better.

A second follow up to yesterdays post. I used the mitered square to make a pillow cover and thought I would share that with you too. I know you experienced sew-ers will find this very elementary but for a beginner it is a great project. You veterans are excused now. 

This is going to be a cover for an 18" square pillow. The top I made yesterday is 19" square.

 

I start by cutting a piece 19" by 27"

Cut that into two pieces (19" x 13" and 19" x 14")

Press and stitch a double turned hem on one long side of each piece.

Lay the top piece down with right side up. Place the back pieces right side down with the hemmed edged overlapping in the center. Pin around all sides and stitch all the way around.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk so the corners will be sharp when turned.

Turn right side out and insert pillow form.

Easy as pie!!

You can also add a ribbon or buttons to the back to dress it up.

Two little tuts

I am going to attempt a couple of mini tutorials. The first will be for a mitered square from striped fabric and the second will be a very mini tutorial on the quilted patchwork purse.

For the mitered square you will need:

Striped Fabric

Paper for pattern

Tape

Ruler

Rotary cutter optional

Cut a square out of paper the size you want the pillow to be (mine will be 18")

Draw intersecting lines from each corner and cut along these lines to make four triangles.

Lay the pattern on your fabric so that the long part of each triangle is at the same place on the fabric. (mine is at the bottom of the yellow stripe each time)

Cut the triangles 1/2 inch wider on each side for seam allowance.

Sorry about the change in fabric. I experimented with two different prints for this tut.

Match up the triangles along one short side, making sure your stripes are matching. Pin heavily. I also used my walking foot to avoid any shifting. If you don't have a walking foot heavy pinning should work.

Sew down one short side. Repeat with the other pair of triangles.

Iron the seam open and it should look something like the picture above, a bigger triangle.

Place the large triangles together along the long side, matching the stripes and again pinning heavily. Sew along this line.

When you're finished it may look something like this. I bet you're saying " I hope not." I agree. It looks kinda wonky there in the middle. I don't think this fabric is the best choice for this technique.

This helps. Oh, this one is miniature. I only had a little of this fabric so it will probably become a pin cushion.

This one is bigger and I'm happier with the look of it.

It will be an 18" pillow cover when it is finished.

Several people have asked about how to make the quilted patchwork purse.   I found the pattern for this purse in a Japanese craft book called Machine Made Patchworks.  Since I can't read Japanese I don't know if I am following the pattern correctly or not, but here is how I construct the outer purse pieces. 

Each side of the purse is made up of 8 strips that are a wedge shape. Each strip is 11" long by 3" wide at the bottom and tapering to 2" at the top. You can use any combination of fabric you choose. I've seen it done with two different fabrics or you can use 8 different prints. After you have cut your strips lay them out in a pattern that is pleasing to you. Once you are happy with your layout, sew the strips together. I use a 1/4" seam allowance.

Here they are sewn together. Use this as a template to cut your lining pieces, your batting and interfacing for the lining. I use pellon craft fuse to interface the lining pieces and I have used quilt batting or a heavy fusible fleece for quilting the patchwork pieces. For this one I used fusible fleece.

I fused the fleece to the back then machine quilted. I quilt straight lines from top to bottom starting about 1/2 inch apart widening as you go to the bottom to follow the shape of the strips.

Here it is quilted.

From this point I assemble it like this, except for the square bottom.

Super Easy Keychain Tutorial

Here are some key chains I made last night and this morning. They are so easy to make and take no time. I made lots of these this past Christmas to give as small gifts and I include them with some of the purses I sell.  The first one uses brown fabric and grosgrain ribbon. The one in the middle I used gingham fabric, daisy ribbon and iron on transfer for the Daisy Bags writing. The last one is black fabric with aqua grosgrain ribbon and the monogram was done on my embroidery machine. The brown and pink one will go with this purse.

I decided to do a tutorial in case anyone is interested.

Materials needed:

Fabric, fusible interfacing (optional), ribbon (optional) 1" d ring and a split ring.

I find it easiest to cut most things using a rotary cutter on a self healing mat. If you sew much and don't have one I highly recommend getting one. One of my best investments.  Mine is 33" x 58".

Cut your fabric 4" x 9" and if you use the interfacing cut it 4" x 8" (this is to decrease the bulk when sewing the ends together). When fusing onto the fabric center it so that there is no interfacing on either end.

You can skip the interfacing unless your fabric is very lightweight. Even on a medium weight fabric the ribbon usually adds enough body to it. If you want a key chain out a printed fabric and choose not to add ribbon I would suggest using the interfacing.

Iron fabric in half the long way. Open and fold either side in to meet in the center. Fold this in half. You should have a strip that is 1" wide and no raw edges visible.

If you aren't going to add ribbon at this point you just sew down either side close to the edge and you are almost finished. I used  fusible tape to secure the ribbon on the strip for sewing.

Stitch down either side.

Now slide the d ring onto the strip and fold in half with right sides together. Stitch the open end using about a 1/2" seam allowance.

Turn it around with the right side facing out and pull the d ring up to the end that you just stitched together.

Stitch as close to the d ring as you can. Sometimes I use my zipper foot for this step.

Put the split ring on the d ring and you are done! Easy as pie and you can make one to match every purse. I know you creative geniuses can come up with all kinds of clever variations. These are just 3 I did in less an hour.

I bought the split rings at hobby lobby but who doesn't have those lying around from old key rings. I use the d rings on my purse handle sometimes so I bought mine on eBay. I think the shipping was more than the actual auction price. It was a total of less than $5.00 for about 100 d rings. When I put short cloth handles on a purse I use cloth or ribbon tabs and d rings to attach the handles.

Basic Purse Tutorial

I was working on purse orders today and decided to take pictures as I went along and attempt to post a tutorial. I don't know who may see this and if it will help any one but I am constantly searching the internet for tips and suggestions and there aren't a lot out there. craftster has lots of great purse tutorials but I don't think I have seen one there just like this. Here is a picture of the purse I made. You can make changes to this basic concept and make lots of different styles.

I use this basic pattern for all my purses.

You will need about 1/2 yard of each fabric for outer bag and lining and about 1 yard of stiff fusible interfacing. I use pellon craft fuse. For this bag I made cloth handles attaching them with 4 1" d rings. You can use purchased handles if you want instead.

To begin cut 2 of your outer bag fabric and 2 lining fabric and 4 interfacing  in a 13" x 12" rectangle that is slightly wider at top than the bottom.

Iron fusible interfacing to each fabric piece

With right sides together cut a 2 inch square out of the bottom corners of the outer bag

Now right sides together sew down sides and across bottom of outer bag

Iron seams open and bring side seam and bottom seam together at bottom corners

Sew across this 4 inch line on both sides. This will form the bottom gusset of bag.

Turn bag right side out.

I forgot to mention the pocket. Cut a piece of fabric  12 inches by about 13 inches cut interfacing 6 inches by 13 inches. Fold the 12 inches in half and fuse the interfacing to the wrong side. Sew down the long side leaving the ends open. Turn to right side and iron. This will be the pocket.

Fold the lining pieces in half to find the center point for marking for your magnetic clasp. I measure 1 1/2 inch from top for placement of my clasp. Make a mark on each lining piece.

Now place pocket on one side of lining 3 inches from top edge and pin in place. Mark for pocket divisions. I use a 4" ruler and place it on center and mark both sides. Sew pocket in place on lining piece by sewing across bottom edge of pocket and down the division lines.

Now sew lining pieces together down sides and across bottom just like you did the outer bag. Also sew the corners as you did for the outer bag. Now place the magnetic clasp in the lining. I reinforce it by using the square piece I cut from the lining corner.

To make the handles cut 2 pieces of fabric 20 inches long by 4 inches wide and 2 piece 10 inches long by 4 inches wide. Cut 2 interfacing 19 inches long and one 10 inches long.  Fuse interfacing to fabric. For the 20 inch long pieces fold and iron in half the long way, open the fold and fold short ends in 1/2 inch, fold each side of the long sides into the center fold and then fold in half. Stitch close to the edge on both sides. Do the same with the 10 inch pieces except for folding in the short sides.

Cut the 10 inch piece into 4 pieces 2 1/2 inches each. These will be the tabs that attach the strap to the bag. Using a 1 inch d ring sew each tab piece to the flat side of the d ring then attach the strap folding down about 1"

Repeat for both straps. Pin straps to top of outer bag 3" in from outer edge.

Zig-Zag across top of bag going over straps several times to be sure they are secure.

Now insert bag  right side out into lining  with right sides touching matching side seams and pin into place.

Sew around top leaving a section for turning. Section needs to be about 5-6 inches so that a 4 inch piece of card board can be inserted.

I use a fabric glue stick and apply glue to both sides of a piece of cardboard cut the size of the bottom of the bag- this one is 4 inches by 8 inches after turning bag insert the cardboard in between the bag and lining.

Now turn down the edges of the opening and pin closed. Top stitch around the top of bag and you are done.

I hope this will be helpful and not too confusing. I have never written a tutorial.

*For this bag in addition to the pellon craft fuse I used a layer of fusible fleece to make the bag a little thicker. It is not necessary and I don't always do this. I just fused the fleece to the outer bag after the craft fuse.

I make a book bag or diaper bag using this same pattern just increase the dimensions and make the handles longer.

You can also add ribbon to the outer bag or monogram. You should do this before sewing the bag sections together.